My goodwill trumpet, ready to be soldered. It was a bit of a pain to refit the "S" brace, but I got it pretty close, so I'm happy.
This is taken after I've soldered the receiver back, look at how nice the solder joint looks from this side.
I'm not as happy with the solder joint from this side, but Greg says that it's acceptable because of how much space there was between.
This is a knuckle dent on my goodwill trumpet. I think someone tried to take it out and didn't do a great job, but I bet I can get it better!
Boom! Got it better, and it didn't take long.
I have to put a waterkey on a customer trumpet, so Greg told me to take the parts (the saddle, and the nipple) from this crook. Done!
Putting the nipple on the customer horn. I also had to take the drawknob off so the slide wouldn't be too cluttered.
The nipple and the saddle are now on the crook, and they look pretty nice too.
Preparing the drill for the waterkey hole. It's good to have felt on there so the slide doesn't bump into the chuck. The drill can only be extended half way through the crook, so it doesn't go all the way through, so I'm going to be pretty safe. This is exciting!
TA DA! Look at that hole. That wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be.
Now, adding a finger saddle on the first slide, this was easier than the nipple. Greg gave me the part and I just had to position it correctly and clip it for soldering. This is after I've soldered it.
Looks like I soldered that thing pretty well. It's a bit messy, but I'm pleased with the joint.
Shiny! This is after buffing both the finger saddle and the waterkey nipple (and saddle). I have to lacquer this to match the rest of the horn and protect the finish.
Pretty! It looks like it has always been there.
This also looks good, I'm quite happy with how that turned out.
The waterkey itself. It fits well.
Oh, just look at that. You can't tell that I added a finger saddle or a second waterkey, they look like they've always been there.
The waterkeys are not the same style, but close enough.
The finger saddle has to almost touch the casing. Greg tried to use the metric system and said that "it should be about a centimeter away from the casing". He was thinking of millimeters, because a centimeter is way too far away.
So close! It feels nice in hand too.
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